2014 Post-election thoughts

The 2014 General Election in NZ was the first time my eyes were truly opened to the fact that social media can give a distorted perspective on what is actually trending in the real world. We had a few people over for dinner and drinks on election night, anticipating a possible Labour/Greens win. The outcome was a pretty huge win for National and we were all feeling a bit stumped as to how it ended up like that.

I wanted to learn more about what motivated people to vote National. I obviously hadn’t been associating with them (or so I thought). So, a few days later, I posted the question below, and received a LOT of interesting responses. The entire discussion is copied below.

Enjoy… 🙂

Rob

 

RF I’m curious about what the important issues were for National voters in this election. I feel as disconnected from the majority of NZ as Labour seems to be. I’d love to hear from National voters why you did so, not to debate, but so I can learn. Just flick me a quick message or an email.
Cheers,
Rob

PD It seems pretty hard to find someone who voted National or is game to admit it. Some in my world have even questioned whether the election was rigged but I don’t subscribe to that concept.

DH I responded to Rob and my reasons for Voting National. I would also suggest that the non-voters would not have changed the result as some might argue. If they were unhappy with the current situation, I think they would vote for change. So therefore I would suggest they are comfortable with the current situation and would vote with status-quo

PD Where did all these new National voters come from, were they young or old? Were they voting for National the political party or were they voting more for a stable government, status quo, and an easy going PM?

DH I don’t think they suddenly appeared. They’ve always been here. All the polls had national in the high 40’s to 50’s. I think the national supporters are just less vocal. I think you’ll find they voted for all of those things in some way and more. I don’t think it should be a revelation that the government did not change. Most things suggested it would stay the same.

JF Simply National is more positive, consistent and organised with a clearer idea of where and why they are heading in a particular direction. All the others come across as negatively inspired moaners with no realistic solutions to their imagined problems other than to extend a Nanny State. If the country doesn’t have a confident, thriving business community it cannot support a socially responsible philosophy. National has a proven track record of supporting business whilst Labour and The Greens would sooner castrate business then complain they are not breeding. So who in their right mind would ever even contemplate voting for a destructive party?

RF Thanks JF, that probably sums up the current thoughts of many kiwis.

BF Your last point JF is a bit insulting and illustrates more of an emotive response than an actual considered one – all parties have good and bad policies.

SM and your view of the TPPA?

JF My apologies BF I do not mean to be insulting. I guess politics will always be emotive depending on the degree of importance that we each put on any party’s policy parts. In my limited view SM TPPA is an extension of APEC, ASEAN FTA and China FTA type agreements that were all conducted in relative secrecy and we have to trust the negotiators to have terms that do not sign away our Sovereignty. The degree of watering down of those rights or in some peoples eyes fundamentals, is a very emotive issue. As BF has alerted me it is very easy to come across as insulting or might I add, down right arrogant when we have a point of view that we think is right. In a lot of ways I would have liked the result to have been less one sided so MMP could have been more effective. Just saying.

SM Sure well maybe some TPPA focus would be of value… this is from Greenpeace there are lots of other stuff about it. All of the negotiations on the deal are secret but leaked documents have shown that within the agreement there are clauses that will allow overseas companies to sue the New Zealand Government. One in particular – catchily known as the investor state dispute settlement – gives special legal rights to foreign investors to sue our Government (or any future government) if New Zealand law is changed in a way they think undermines their profits.

If for example New Zealand wanted to introduce better legislation to clean up our rivers, limit the amount of waste we produce or reduce pollution, the TPPA will allow investors to challenge these decisions in offshore private tribunals with no public accountability but which potentially require compensation from the New Zealand taxpayer.

This would seriously hinder our ability to manage our own affairs. And it is not just environmental regulation that would be impacted. The TPPA’s tentacles also extend to things like workers rights, health care and intellectual property. In short our democracy and self determination are all on the line.

KD I agree that the TPPA is of huge concern, and I think these FTAs are possibly the biggest threat to democracy our country faces – I think a lot of people take the approach JF does, saying “we have to trust the negotiators to have terms that do not sign away our Sovereignty”, but the trouble is that there is not much evidence that this trust is well-placed. FTAs have become more and more anti-democratic worldwide, not only in the way they are negotiated but as SM says, in that they actually do make a country’s democratic decisions around policy-making subject to challenges from private companies that feel their right to profit is undermined by such policy decisions. I wish this was hypothetical, but it has already happened – Costa Rica is being sued by a Canadian mining company for revoking a mining permit over environmental concerns (and in fact banning open pit mining altogether), claiming it violates the terms of a bilateral investment treaty between the two countries (see here http://www.ticotimes.net/…/infinito-gold-files-lawsuit…). If a country’s people decide democratically that they don’t want open pit mining, should a private company be able to sue them for that? Infinito Gold was originally suing not only for their actual costs, but also for $1 billion of “lost profits” – that is, what they imagine they would have earned if the mine had gone ahead. Thankfully they’ve reduced the amount they are claiming, but to me it’s still outrageous that a country can sign a document that puts a company’s “right” to profits above its people’s right to make democratic decisions!!!

Infinito Gold files lawsuit against Costa Rican government over…

After months of saber rattling, Infinito Gold, Ltd. announced Monday that it had filed for a Request for Arbitration with a World Bank court in its protracted dispute with the government of Costa Rica over the canceled Las Crucitas gold mining concession.

http://www.ticotimes.net/2014/02/10/infinito-gold-files-lawsuit-against-costa-rica-over-canceled-gold-mining-contract

AS Political authority is cyclical, but that knowledge provides me with very little solace. 3 more years of even greater disparity between business-minded individuals and the people that they profit from.

PD Okay thank you. I will take your sincere thoughts on board. I didn’t vote last time but I contemplated voting National for the first time ever this time. But it was that dirty politicking style of Whale Oil and Judith Collins that really did it for me. I have no time for secretive abuse of power or privilege by anybody ever. Dot Coms motives were obvious and transparent so I could empathise with his predicament.

JP Hi Rob, I’ve been a National supporter since I was able to vote. Besides roads and emergency services, I don’t require anything from the government. I have my own health insurance, income protection, life insurance superannuation etc. I pay a truck load of tax and am not even in the country for half the year. I didn’t get a job because of the government, I got it despite them. My industry has suffered by successive governments allowing foreign labour to work our coasts but instead of crying about it, I got a job overseas. Governments cannot create employment, they can only make it attractive to businesses to invest which will result in employment. If you victimise businesses and their executives, they will just move to another country or not start in the first place. There seems to be a bit of memory loss going on. The past Labour governments have done nothing but spend to buy votes with nothing to show for it. Our current government now has to make up for the lack of spending on infrastructure from Helens rein, along with the GFC and Earthquakes. The surpluses of the previous government were soaked up by their social spending which achieved nothing but a sense of entitlement by those who are basically unemployable. The Labour government in Australia tried to spend their way out of the GFC as per the lefts views here, look at them now. It is said that the UK will take decades to recover from Tony Blair’s government. So I think perhaps, due to the majority of New Zealanders being workers, they voted in such a way so as to provide a future, not just a few short term hand outs.

PD yeah i think unemployment is down to 6 or 8 % here, so less mouths to feed. Are these unemployables you refer to really a lazy bunch, or are they an inevitable by product of the society that makes most of us happy to be part of? and is it our responsibility to look after them?
Alas, what are the alternatives other than to behave like Hitler

JP Remember the Nazis were a Left wing party, and they too tried to blame the country’s problems on a group of industrious people. I guess if you were to find a positive in our modern left wingers, at least they only want to tax hard workers rather than kill them!

RF (A left wing party who wanted to wipe out Communism.) 🙂

LW Unemployment rate, http://www.stats.govt.nz/browse_for_stats/snapshots-of-nz/nz-progress-indicators/home/economic/unemployment-rate.aspx, if you reckon temporal is causality check the years in the graph

Unemployment rate – Statistics New Zealand

The source data for this indicator is available…

PD so LW is the unemployment rate a relatively low 6% now. I’m really not trying to be a smartarse here.

LW Low cf Spain youth unemployment for sure (54% and has been higher) and as I suggested higher than the 2004-2008 period a Labour govt I believe, just look at the graph

MM

Preaching to the converted

Social media is a black mirror that reflects our own views back at us.

http://thewireless.co.nz/themes/election/preaching-to-the-converted

PD Thank you for posting that MM, it was more relevant to this discussion than I anticipated it to be. I’m not Robs proxy, in fact I do not know Rob at all but I feel this discussion is a great one to be having.

MM It was interesting how equally disbelieving the USA rightwing was despite that the major polls all accurately predicted Obama’s strong win last year. I guess we are all victoms of confirmation bias.

In Boston, stunned Romney supporters struggle to explain…

BOSTON — About an hour after Mitt Romney delivered his brief, graceful concession speech at the Boston Convention Center, a group of his top aides — Beth Myers, Eric Fehrnstrom, Stuart Stevens, Russ Schriefer, and several others — retired to the bar of the nearby Westin Hotel.  Nobody was crying, no…

http://www.washingtonexaminer.com/in-boston-stunned-romney-supporters-struggle-to-explain-defeat/article/2512861#.UJpcIoaYXdx

LW http://www.crikey.com.au/2013/12/05/stop-cheering-the-nz-government-for-good-economic-management/?wpmp_switcher=mobile

New Zealand Labour Party, not National, helped New Zealand economy | Crikey

New Zealand politics seldom attracts much attention in…

SM http://www.stuff.co.nz/…/Voter-turnout-near-record-low

http://www.stuff.co.nz/national/politics/10526861/Voter-turnout-near-record-low

1 million non-voters

Voter turnout at Saturday’s election improved, but roughly the same number who voted for National did…

JS I’m keen to know aswell….coz I roll in many different circles, however NONE of the people in those circles voted National. So who did? There must be a humungous percentage of NZers that I just don’t ever interact with & it’s truly scary that they are giving power to what the rest of us despise.

LW Not sure how many I’ve said a similar thing to, suspect many of us move in insular circles

DE I have supported National in recent times but have moved around over the past 34 years. Given personal situations and changing focus different party policies can seem more important at diiferent times. Your pastime interests, family situation, work or business postion all have a bearing. If the local MP no matter what their party is doing a great job then they get my vote, the party vote is more strategic. Probably need a weather bound camp day to share all the ins and outs.

MH Hi Rob. Send me your email address and I’ll send you an article I wrote on the various parties. “Eagles Don’t Flock”

RP I don’t think I know a single National voter.. was this election rigged or is my head in the sand??

JP Hi RP, probably neither. You generally associate with people of a like mind so it is quite feasible to not directly know anyone who votes differently to you. One of my friends voted Labour a few years ago, I don’t know any others who vote that way, Except RF of course! 🙂 So I have the equal and opposite situation.

RO Hi Rob , I voted National, by the smallest of margins ever. I felt that John Key was the most capable leader for the next 3 years, although I don’t agree with all of their policy. My reasons: 1) While I agree with many Labour & Greens policies, I did not like the thought of them having to form a government with (& making concessions to) NZ First, Internet Mana (who knew they would not get in??). 2) I think David Cunliffe doesn’t have what it takes to lead NZ (Helen Clark leaves big boots to fill). 3) The Greens policy for public transport should be the policy all parties aspire to. The living wage needs to happen, however it should be brought in voluntarily (see the example of Henry Ford in the early 1900s) – this will benefit the economy. This post is getting too long! Yes I vote National, because I think they lead well, however I feel I have an obligation to write to them (make submissions) on the areas where I disagree. Unfortunately politics cannot be voted on policy by policy

LW Elaborate lead well please, your earlier referencing gives an implication of a leader as almost presidential, is this what you mean?

RO I think national is not afraid to adopt portions of other parties policy, as best they can while still delivering a reasonable budget (i.e. they do represent CENTRE right). Sure, a party is more than a good figurehead. I hope that by National being a team that can govern alone, they wont have to comprimise with many of the more right wing policies. In other words, I think national is the most capable party of delivering policy in the centre, without going to either extreme.

GL LW, with a history including Helen and Muldoon, NZers are clearly drawn to leaders with strong control over their cabinets. In these two examples almost overbearing attention to detail. Given the US presidents have to deal with the house of reps etc I would say NZ PMs can assume more power.

RO for the record, I was initially against asset sales, however I heard an argument saying that by selling one asset (power generation), and building/buying another, NZ can own what it most needs. Furthermore, its hard to make reform to lower the prices of electricity if it eats into the profits feeding back to the state. There is much risk to conventional generators when the market becomes decentralized due to distributed generation – so it makes sense to sell while they still represent good value.

PD sell to who, the poor?

AM I didn’t find it easy to decide who to vote for but voted National in the end. I’m very uncomfortable with the Greens as I expect them to lead the charge on things like expanding abortion. I can’t take their purported commitment to social justice seriously when put along side such policies. For that reason I was also uncomfortable voting Labour given that the Greens would have such a strong influence on a Labour government. I didn’t vote Conservative because although I agree with their family related policies I didn’t want to waste a vote and also don’t really like the way they talk about things such as law and order and Treaty of Waitangi issues. That said I am concerned about TPPA and GCSB issues for example so not totally comfortable with National. But in the end felt like they have been doing a reasonable job and for me a social justice issue like abortion will trump other social justice issues and likewise concerns over spying for example.

RO I agree with AM. I cannot support the greens more lenient view on abortion. To me it is a last resort, when no other option is available (and still represents a failing of society to support someone in need (mother & child). However, in the same sense I could not support conservative as they show little empathy for others. I think they are trying to position themselves as being faithful to God’s teaching – however tougher sentencing (without rehabilitation or education) shows no sign of compassion. The world is not black and white, as the conservatives (or the Greens) would have it.

JS I’m ashamed to say I didn’t register to vote as I have lived overseas for nearly 10 years. But the election was a big topic among my family and friends last weekend. Every Chinese person I know who could vote, voted National. I have noticed many more Asian faces in Auckland in recent years. Perhaps that explains the voting pattern? I can’t guess what their reasons are for voting National, I myself have not kept up with NZ politics for many years now.

RF That’s a really interesting point JS. It’ll be interesting to find out why they relate more to National – possibly influenced by their policies on foreign ownership?

JS For my family, as poor, hard working first generation immigrants from China, I think years of surpression under a communist regime drives them to want to vote for right wing which generally symbolises freedom and free market. I don’t know if that is a common sentiment shared by Chinese immigrants though. I myself would never trust a banker!

NW Thanks for asking this RF, I’ve also been feeling incredibly disconnected from NZ and fascinated to hear these responses.

RF A couple more comments from people who’ve sent me private messages (they’ll remain anonymous):

RF “I have voted for the Greens every time except this election. This time I voted for National. I decided to change my vote I guess to ensure Labour didn’t get in. I don’t want a nanny state and I think many of Labour’s policies will cripple many. The National government did bring in one of the strongest pieces of environmental legislation so I have faith the Greens will keep them on track. I know many people that voted National. I certainly don’t agree with many things National have done, but is there really a perfect party? For me at this point in time a stable government with a clear strong path is important.”

RF “I have voted for most parties over the years but currently am a strong National supporter. Mainly because I think any country would be lucky to attract a leader of Key’s character. It’s true that on individual policies I tend to prefer the Greens and sometimes Labour, but somehow – I’m not quite sure why – I don’t trust either of them at gut level on the general stuff. Plus the people on the left seem to be really up themselves – so sure they have the monopoly on “who really cares”. Also judging by what I read on Facebook, nearly all of my friends and friends of friends have a strong dislike of John Key, and they don’t mind broadcasting that. I find these negative personal attacks a really big turn-off.”

RF “For me it was mainly that I didn’t like some of what Labour planned. The biggest one for me was the NZ Power thing. I really don’t want that. The power market is complex beyond what a politician understands and adding another layer would not reduce costs and would reduce investment in green generation such as geothermal. The Vote tool on tvnz helped me understand the parties a lot better and aligned me square with National. I agree with their welfare and education policies and I agree with the sell down of the state assets to the point that they have. This is my first time voting National. I usually vote United Future, but the vote tool helped me decide and a vote for United future is a wasted vote, this year I knew I didn’t want Labour and the Greens so I voted National directly.”

TD Good post Rob, I also felt very disconnected from the outcome of the election.

RF Also just had a conversation with a colleague, who said he agrees with most environmental policies of the Greens, and almost voted for them, but voted National because (a) the Greens’ social policies are ‘too far left’, (b) the Greens don’t sufficiently recognise the importance of the dairy industry, and (c) Labour was a ‘bunch of wallies.’

KD Thanks Rob, a really interesting discussion here, I was also really surprised by the result and wondered whether I was living in a total bubble… also, I think this is possibly one of the most civilised and respectful political discussions I’ve seen on the internet, so congrats Rob! And all your civilised and respectful friends 🙂

RF Yeah, I’m stoked with this thread! Everyone’s been so courteous, and I love how relatives and old/new friends – who will mostly never get to meet in person – are all able to share views with each other. Really interesting to hear these points and I’m glad I asked in the first place.

LW RO re abortion what is the hurdle, I just checked policy says decriminalise and allow to 20 wk same rules. Have I missed something? Also love to know how you figure a higher minimum wage will happen via voluntary mechanism

RF RO I think that’s for you but I also think this has potential to get people wound up. Comment as you wish. 🙂

DB As I read the Greens policy, it more of less formalises the status quo – the current law is actually pretty strict (only legal if likely to cause lasting harm to the mother), just somewhat loosely enforced with a reasonably relaxed interpretation of harm. If someone like Colin Craig were to gain significant traction in parliament, the status quo could theoretically be used to instigate very punitive policy, not dissimilar to what is seen in Texas.

That said, some medical professionals would rather not rattle the boat, as the status quo works and they are afraid that if the issue came up for debate in parliament we might end up with even more of a mess.

GL Hey Rob, I handed in a ballot for the first time this election. Yet I left it blank. Neither side was able to convince me that their policy was more robust than the other. Although I like the idea of SOE dividend, capital gains tax, expanded social welfare for the least fortunate; I am not convinced that the TPPA compromises will create a country worse off than before or that ‘trickle down economics’ doesn’t work. The vast majority of those who voted did so based on policy research which affirmed their own beliefs (if they did any research at all). This is why I don’t vote, even if only a few political scientists take notice, we need a better informed population. Not voting is my way of adding my voice to the growing number of those brave enough not to vote based on their lack of understanding. We all learned scientific method in school, but it appears many have lost sight of its function.. Be critical of your beliefs! Search specifically for ideas which challenge your parties policies (TPPA, economic trickle down, the idea of progress and environmental damage / solutions). Democracy itself is a roughshod science, we have a party in for some years and if their policy works it stays, if not it goes.. A natural selection in our countries direction.. I asked a friend this election when I was seriously considering voting, who they were voting for.. They told me ‘that was their business’ (Nats then J ). That solidified my blank ballot.. Worse still people told me it didn’t matter who I voted for just that I voted!! Think about that idea for a second. If you’re so apathetic as to not care who I vote for, just that I take part should you be voting? The idea of not being able to discuss and JUSTIFY your politics is outdated and backward, so congratulations Rob on this forum, although it would be nice to see some hard evidence instead of conjecture.. We live in the age in information people!!

RF Awesome comment GL. I would love to say kiwis should get more informed but really that’s just my reaction to the majority of the country voting differently to me! I’m in the same ‘requires educating’ boat that most are in. Let’s begin/keep the process going of more valuable knowledge sharing!

AF I have 7 policies or philosophies for you Rob that in my current uninformed state, seem attractive….
1) Get rid of all public holidays except xmas and anzac day (make the shops close on those days). Give all workers 6 weeks leave to compensate. No more public holiday road tolls, surcharges, traffic jams, no more highways built just to handle public holiday demands.
2) Initiate a capital gains tax on all houses. Why exempt the primary residence? Don’t back date it. Start from now. We need to make houses more affordable and change the economic settings that currently make property investment a no brainer for most wealthy kiwis.
3) Create more of a gap between the lowest wage earners and beneficiaries through a high tax free threshold. I have no problem with people on minimum wage paying no tax.
4) Put interest back on student loans from the time people graduate. For the first year post graduation, the govt writes of 50c for every $1 you pay off. The second year, 40c and so on until you are on your own after 5 years.
5) Investigate a high tax rate on the super wealthy. Eg, 50% above 200k. I suspect super wealthy people don’t leave countries over money. They have enough. I just wonder if the idea they will leave if we tax them is BS. I don’t think being able to be super wealthy helps society.
6) Move the focus from helping beneficiaries to helping kids of beneficiaries. Adults are too hard to change. Make decile 1 schools the best resourced schools rather than the worst.
7) Protect the environment. Our appeal as a big national park will only grow as the world becomes more polluted. Imagine the potential bird tourism we could have in 200 years time. Play the long game, the environment will give us better economic returns in the long term. Be a bit less wealthy now to be sustainably wealthy in the future.
I felt the Greens best represented these ideas so I voted for them.

RF 1) Sure why not. 2) Why exempt primary residence? Because if you want to move house (bigger family, job change to new location, etc), you want to have the money available from what you’ve sold to buy something similar. If the property you’re leaving has increased in value and you get taxed on that increase, you’d be disadvantaged when trying to buy the next house. 3) Interesting idea – do you think there needs to be more of an incentive to stop being a beneficiary? 4) Sure why not. 5) I like that idea but a few others won’t, even idealists who don’t earn that much. 6) and 7) AMEN.

AF 2) I think it needs to include all houses otherwise it will be expolited, eg if i own 3 houses just move into the one i want to sell. Could save me 50k on tax so worth the hassle. Whats wrong with being disadvantage when buying the next house? If you own a house for 30 years you will pay tax on the gains at the final sale. If you sell and buy a number of times over the 30 years you will have paid your tax in smaller installments at each house change. I own one house that i dont live in. If primary residence is excluded i would pay CGT on my house because i dont live in it despite it being my only house. Make it simple… tax them all.

AF now that i think about the student loan thing… you would have to cap the govt write off at maybe 3k per year. Otherwise if you didnt need a loan you could max it out and pay back only 2/3rds of it on the day you graduate keeping the third.

JP I think loans should only be lent for degrees that have the potential to be able to be paid off. Bad risk, no money. If it is a degree based on a whim or personal interest the taxpayer should not have to cover that. Also, anyone with a house that has a student loan should have to pay it off using the equity of the house. As before, taxpayers should not have to cover debt if the person is able to own property.

RF Definitely agree your latter point JP. I think I agree with the first.

GL JP, I think that’s plain crazy. In the same way that we support seemingly inane science which costs a lot of money (climate scientists working on mercury first discovered global green house effects) we should support higher education without question.. It’s a simple matter of competition.. In a global economy where labor is increasingly replaced by automation and capital with information (think programming), it is the countries with the best higher (and lower) education which will have the strongest economies and therefore be in the best position to deal with various environmental challenges. We should unquestioningly support our physics and mathematics departments although there benefits may not be of short term economic gain and our post-grads unlikely to pay off loans. The bad risk in education is thinking that only some types of learning ‘pay off’.

GL Not to mention the global responsibility we have as a country to increase human knowledge?

JP If this ‘Knowledge’ is unable to sustain itself, what have you really achieved? The degree is paid for by the tax paying tradesmen and the rich entrepreneurs and business owners. Of who the graduates want to tax heavily to pay for their life choices. How many people finish university and are completely unemployable, these are the people who should be screened. If the university education is so important to the global economy, why do most plumbers get paid more?

GL Well, we’ve achieved a good idea of human effects on climate, is that not worth while? We’ve prevented millions from starving with GM crops, was that worth while? We know the universe to be around 14.5 billion years old, that the Earth orbits the sun, that life evolves, that the atom is made of component parts, that NZ rivers are suffering under dairy pressure, that a non-euclidean geometry exists which helps us understand that it is possible that everything we thought was matter is actually made of space.. Your life has been made better by previous generations of ‘tax payers’ funding science and arts which didn’t pay off for the individuals involved but sometimes people study things for the greater good not just a personal ‘whim’. I hope this is a wind up. The data for NZ plumbers vs uni grads wasn’t readily available but I think I’ve found an article that sums up both of our ideas succinctly. http://fortune.com/…/05/college-worth-value-debt-salaries/ Have a read, some of it affirms what you say, and I certainly agree that we subsidize some young people to waste their time but your proposal to ‘screen’ them is unrealistic, against fundamental rights and would be harmful to the country in the medium to long term. As I mentioned earlier; in a global economy in which labor and capital become less influential on economies it is higher education which will determine a countries economic success.. You could as well be arguing we shouldn’t subsidize R&D or fund the arts or give certain children past 14 anymore high school. All those things cost us money for little initial benefit, or for the individuals benefit and not the countries, or for intangible benefit (not yet measured by some subsidized ‘tax payed’ scientist).

Why college isn’t for everyone, explained in a single chart

The bottom quarter of earners with a college…

http://fortune.com/2014/09/05/college-worth-value-debt-salaries/

JP I think you’re going off on a tangent there. If there is a job for the sciences etc, then there is a need for the higher learning. However as a taxpayer that has never had a student loan, I am loathed to see students with little or no direction, wasting money attending university and looking to society to pay for it. I know of people who have done a degree in Sports management, Surfing, (Plymouth Uni UK) and numerous arts degrees who have nothing but debt and a hangover to show for it. Remember until students have graduated, got a job and paid off their debt they are a burden to society. Unfortunately most advice given to students tells them what they want to hear, not what they need to hear. The biggest addition to our economy is created by people milking cows, not a degree in sight. As the article reads, ‘University is not for everyone’. A lot of time and money could be saved by students taking a year or two out to think about what they want to achieve rather than heading straight to Uni from school.

LW Have to say this I disagree with (I had a loan, big and in the days of ‘double interest’ it is paid back) I have not been a National (or Liberal voter) There are lots of things that don’t return money that are subsidised and in my opinion should continue that way

GL Sorry for the tangent JP, but when you make a statement as general as ” I think loans should only be lent for degrees that have the potential to be able to be paid off.”, you’re opening your self to some fairly broad criticism. Who will make this hypothetical decision and based on what criteria? Can you define “paid off” as the tax payer will wind up paying many loans back as the government largely pays for the less practical sciences. The problem being the disconnect between direct economic rewards for scientific study and the amount of time and money to do the study. Science should be undertaken for no other reason than understanding. So can you please exempt it when you enact your crackdown on those you deem unlikely to be able to pay back their debt?

DB Couldn’t agree more with a universal capital gains tax – Seeing as so many people are financially dependent on their house price increasing, however, I’d start low and gradually ramp it up. I’d also try and depoliticise it putting it under the control of the reserve bank, with some form of target – e.g. house prices shouldn’t increase faster than inflation plus the rate of population increase. Would also bring in a capital tax (on the full value of the property, not just gains) for foreign owned land. If set at ~1%, this shouldn’t discourage well thought out iinvestment, but would mean that simple land banking would effectively revert to NZ ownership in 100 years. ( For comparison, the US has a cgt of around 20%, and a capital tax (which applies to everyone, not just foreigners) of 1-4% (depending on where you live)

JP Consider it Exempt, I just re read my previous and the openness of my point is still valid. If you study science, then put it into practice and pay off your debt then it validates itself as per my argument. I was sponsored to do my training, and I think this is the best way to train the workforce. They can directly employ and train their people so there would be no need for taxpayer subsidy and it would directly match supply and demand for skills in the industry.

RC Rob have a read of Garth Morgan blog site and see if his argument and comments are of interest

RF Thanks RC, I’ll have a look.

RF I like this: “for me, the most frustrating aspect of the election result is the entrenched inability of the Green Party to grasp that the environmental message is something that appeals to middle-of-the-road New Zealanders, not just Lefties.”

PP For me the most frustrating aspect was the inability of Green party voters to vote tactically!

GL Great site RC! One that I think I’ll return to often, just skimming I found a supremely positive review of a French economists book about capitalism and inequality, his solution being a wealth tax.. I had previously read a scathing review of the book in Foreign Affairs Magazine. Perhaps an interesting example of self affirmation. A question for those reading: How much credibility should we give to people like GM who have the time to research the issues in depth or political scientists who have the education to understand the issues in a way we can barely hope to emulate?

RF From what I’ve seen I have a lot of time for Mr Morgan and anyone else who has time to research and backgrounds which give them insight.

RF I only say this assuming any agendas are transparent.

RC Have a look on the GM website for Dumb and dirty growth – has ratings of 3 parties’ policies

AF What do you mean paul?

PP Look at the numbers in the electorates Ohariu, Epsom, Auckland Central, and Hutt. If Labour and Green had worked together (most likely to vote for a Labour candidate) then Peter Dunne would be out and ACT would be gone. The overall numbers wouldn’t change for National and they could still govern, but they would have less parties to form a coalition with, just the Maori Party on whom pressure could then be brought to bear by other parties. This of course assumes that Winston would just dance around and not join the Nats. In Hutt 2000+ people voted for Holy Walker knowing that she had withdrawn, yet Trevor Mallard is leading by only a few hundred votes. Some might say that’s an indictment of Trev (and it is) but it also suggests to me that some Green voters would rather be seen to be Green than be in Government.

PD I needed a break from all this serious discussion and I found this post from before the election. Well at least it made me laugh but then I prefer to not take politics too seriously. Hope it doesn’t offend.
http://www.therock.net.nz/…/articleID/30778/Default.aspx

David Cunliffe a.k.a ‘D-Cunny’ spits rhymes to Eminem’s ‘Lose Yourself’ track

LW Great topic Rob, I think it would be interesting to resurrect just prior to next election (should FB be of any relevance) and ask current posters if the policies and goals were achieved, or fears were realised and if anyone is about to change their voting pattern

RF I’ve actually had people say to me that this thread was a week too late!

RO Yikes this thread is getting hard to follow on my mobile. Is it easier to do so via a desktop browser?

RF Slightly…

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Easter-Anzac trip, 2014

Claire, Simon, Nina, James and I had grand plans for this ten-day holiday. However, none of our original ideas were possible with the weather looking so poor. We decided to push our luck with a trip into South Westland (one of the wettest parts of New Zealand) and it paid off! Admittedly we didn’t get much of a chance to dry out, and had to endure a pretty decent storm on day 8, but we had just enough fine weather right when we needed it.

Day 1: Up Moeraki Valley to Middle Head Hut. Day 2: hut day during heavy rain. Day 3: Over Zeilian Saddle to camp in upper Zeilian Creek. Day 4: down to 720m in Zeilian then up through bush and sidle to camp next to Weary-Monro Stream. Day 5: climb to saddle at head of Weary-Monro Stream, climb of Weary Summit (2089m), and camp at 1660m high above McFarlane Valley. Day 6: descend to camp in McFarlane Valley. Day 7: climb upper true right tributary of McFarlane to camp/bivvy rock 40m below Rainytop-Ranganui Saddle. Day 8: ‘rest’ day during storm. Day 9: up to Rainytop-Ranganui Saddle, traverse northern slopes of Ranganui, long descent to Horseshoe Flat then follow Moeraki Valley track to Blowfly Hut. Day 10: out to road and back to Christchurch.

More photos to be posted soon…

01 camp near head of Zeilian 02 Mt Zeilian from 720m flats 03 East from Weary-Monro Creek campsite 04 Weary-Monro cirque 05 Western slopes of Weary Summit 06 Weary Summit 07 Snowy morning west of Weary-Monro saddle 08 Camp in the McFarlane River 09 Upper true right tributary of McFarlane 10 Camp below Rainytop-Ranganui Saddle after storm 11 West from Rainytop-Ranganui Saddle 12 Crossing the Moeraki near Horseshoe Flat Hut 13 Final sunset of the trip in the Moeraki Valley

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July 2010: New route on the west face of Somnus, North Routeburn Valley: “Insomnius” WI3+ M5, with Scott Blackford Scheele

Every few years, something new and worth knowing about in the mixed climbing world gets discovered. An area with sustained, quality climbing and dozens of lines to choose from. Something that gives you a feeling of adventure yet which is surprisingly easy to access and is surrounded by reasonably safe terrain. And perhaps most importantly, it’s in condition when most other ‘known’ areas aren’t.

This is what Andrew Finnigan discovered a couple of weeks ago when climbing Mt Somnus from the North Branch of the Routeburn with his girlfriend Sarah. They’d gone in for a pleasant, two day winter climb on an accessible peak, not previously aware of the potential for steep climbing on Somnus’ western buttresses. What Andrew saw made him determined to return, especially as there was no record of any ice or mixed climbing being done in the area.

A week later Andrew was back with Julian Webster. An easy hour and a half on the Routeburn Track got them to Routeburn Flats Hut. At 8am the following morning they were at the base of the most obvious gullies below Somnus, two hours from the hut. By 8pm they were back at the hut after completing nine pitches of superb ice and mixed climbing: ‘Mid-Winter Christmas,’ 300m, WI3+, M5, described by Andrew as “all the interesting bits of Friday’s Fool [a classic and popular 200m mixed route in the Remarkables] stacked on top of each other again and again.”

____________________________________________________________

Three days later: I was at my neighbour Johs’ place in Fox, and we were depressed. Our planned nine days off from work had just begun, just at the previous month of glorious weather on the coast was coming to an end. All these routes on the neve that we’d lined up were to remain untrodden. The weather looked ok down in Queenstown, but the Remarkables were dry due to lack of snow, and the ice climbing at Wye Creek would be nothing new. Besides, the climbs there are only single-pitch.

En-route to the Routeburn - TSS Earnslaw, Lake Wakatipu and the Remarkables, from the road between Queenstown and Glenorchy.

Then Andrew came online. He told me about Mid-Winter Christmas, just climbed. It sounded great.

“And there’s potential for a new line in the gully to the left.”

I was sold, but Johs didn’t want it enough. The cost of petrol to Queenstown was too much.

“What if I pay for all of it?”

“Nah man, I couldn’t let you, I’m not going down.”

So I still wasn’t climbing. I had to find someone. I’d go nuts if I stayed in Fox in the rain.

Looking up the North Branch of the Routeburn from Routeburn Flats in the moonlight. The slopes of Somnus are in the distance on the right side of the valley.

I went home to think. My flatmate Scott had just finished work. He hadn’t done any ice or mixed leading before, but hey, a keen belayer was all I needed.

“Hey Scott, you’ve got the next two days off right? Want to do a rad nine-pitch mixed line by Queenstown? Three and a half hour approach. We’ll probably be able to do a new route.”

He said “yes” without even seeing Andrew’s photos.

Approaching the steep stuff: Insomnius takes the deep gully on the left; Mid-Winter Christmas starts up the fat ice streak out right, then turns left up another gully. The routes join at the notch in the skyline.

The next evening we were at a bivvy rock one hour from the base of the route. A relaxed start meant the whole walk in ended up being in the dark, but it was a beautifully clear, moonlit night. (Thank God, as the freezing level was forecast to be higher than any of the climbing.)

We dressed lightly for the 400m climb to the base of the route. At 8am we were right underneath Mid-Winter Christmas. We could see why Andrew and Julez headed right at the start – their first pitch was a beautiful piece of fat, 70Âş ice. But to the left, the first 150m of the main gully (which MWC joins higher up) beckoned – it looked tricky but doable; it certainly involved more mixed ground than MWC. And what an awesome, direct line it formed! It had our names all over it.

At 8:30 we were off, soloing the first 40m of the gully, up three small, straightforward steps. I seemed to take a lot longer than Scott with the tricky stuff, a good sign that he’d actually be able to do a lot of the leading.

I led the 50m first pitch, mostly good fun ice (WI3+) with an exciting, sparsely protected M4 corner at the top.

Pitch two (40m) was Scott’s: a couple of 8m sections of more M4 with steep snow between. I was happy to second this one! The gully was at its most confined around here, with both walls rearing behind us as we hacked our way up.

Pitch three (60m) started with another tricky mixed section (M4), then WI2 ice led into the Mid-Winter Christmas Gully after about 20m. A fun 3m pillar of ice provided the route around a small chockstone, then it was a snowslope up to a belay below a large chockstone – what Andrew had told us was the crux of their route.

Andrew and Julez had gone around the right side of the big chockstone, but so far the conditions had been a bit fatter for us so Scott thought he’d try an ok-looking line on the left. This was abandoned rather decidedly when Scott took a 10m slide/fall (with no runners)!

A few minutes later on the other side of the gully, Scott placed an ok hex before embarking on a sketchy traverse to the left across a snow-covered slab of rock: by far the most hair-raising section of the climb and the M5 crux. A very bold lead for someone whose only previous experience with crampons on rock was bouldering near Dunedin!

The rest of pitch four (50m) was a moderate snowslope to the base of a 5m wall of vertical ice. From there, pitches five (50m) and six (30m) were moderate snow and WI2 ice.

Pitch seven was probably the funnest lead of the day for me, running it out 10m on 80Âş ice a couple of times near the top to make a 45m pitch. (On the first pitch I’d clumsily dropped a screw – with the help of the clipper on my harness – meaning we only had seven remaining – enough for three screw placements on each pitch.) When Scott arrived at the hanging belay he was feeling tired so I led the final 15m onto easy snow slopes to finish the route at 5:30pm.

Scott investigating the left side of the large chockstone, not long before his fall.

So far, so good… Scott had to work on the glacier the following day (starting at 8:30am), but provided we could get back to the car by 1am, we’d be in Queenstown in time for two hour’s sleep at Andrew’s house before driving back to Fox – no worries!

The chockstone and right side of the gully. The crux was a right to left traverse across the snow-covered slab above the overhang. I was stoked to second this one - nice work Scott!

Two hours later we knew that wasn’t going to happen. We still hadn’t started going down. In order to get to the top of the huge descent gully – the Somnus Couloir – we had to traverse and climb 300m through knee- to thigh-deep snow. At 7:30 we were there. Looking down, the moonlit gully looked ominous – acres of inclined snow narrowing and dropping over a rollover, then disappearing into blackness between huge walls of rock.

Scott at the top of pitch 6.

In the end the steepest sections were no more than 50Âş, but it was slow work downclimbing the couloir. The feeling of success began to grow inside us as we ever so slowly neared the valley floor – we’d done the route, and we were almost back on safe ground.

But it was still a long way to go. At the bottom of the couloir was almost a kilometre of avalanche debris from three days earlier to walk through, then we plodded across alluvial fans and river flats, through snow covered boulders and tussock, to reach the bivvy rock at 11:30.

Looking down from the top of pitch 7. North Branch of the Routeburn below.

Dinner and a brew inside us, we packed up and left at 12:30am. A pseudo-drunken stumble got us back to the car at 3:30 where we brewed a strong coffee, then the most meandering driving of our lives got us to Queenstown by 5:30. We were safe.

Scott climbing over the final bulge onto snow slopes at 5:30pm.

In the end Johs saved the day, agreeing at 6am via text that he’d work for Scott. So we slept ’til midday, talked smack with Andrew over lunch, and took our time on our way home. We were immensely satisfied with the trip: it was the first new mixed or ice route for either of us, the route was a stunner, we’d got on well together, and I was stoked to have made use of my time off with a quick revision of plans.

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Photos: 2010, July: Fox Neve Ski-touring

The main goal for me, Josh and Toine was a climb of the Left Couloir on the South Face of Douglas, based from Pioneer Hut. We made an attempt, but our inefficiency as a team along with the average ice conditions made us pull the pin after one pitch. The ice meant we wouldn’t be able to abseil the route as planned or solo where we would have liked. But we got in some fun touring (which made me realise I need to improve my skiing) and I led another fun mixed pitch closer to the hut, the same day as the Douglas attempt. The next day Josh and Toine headed for Centennial Hut while I skied/walked all the way out to the Fox Valley carpark.

Day One:

Day Two:

Day Three:

Mt Tasman flanked by Lendenfeld (left) and Torres (right). A traverse over these three, from right to left, is high on my list.

Just before arriving at Chancellor, I radio'd work to arrange a flight out with one of the helihikes, but found out there were none that day! So psyched myself to walk to rest of the way down the glacier to the road.

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Photos: 2010, June: Mt McFarlane, South Westland

For months I’d looked at this ridge rising steeply to McFarlane on the far side of the Haast River every time I drove over Haast Pass. Johs, Dan and I had planned on three days on the Fox Neve but conditions weren’t quite good enough to fly in, so I persuaded them that a huge, cold river crossing and a 1000m steep bush-bash would be fun.

McFarlane from the Haast Highway. The ridge we climbed divides light and shade. The steep, sustained bush section at the base was the crux!

After struggling with steep dense bush for a few hours (followed by annoying head-high snow-covered scrub) we gained the crest of the ridge, just before sunset. We set up camp only 5mins above this spot.

Mt Brewster dominated the view south

Dan and Johs thought they'd try to imitate what's been the other side of the camera for them while guiding on the glacier

Looking north over the valleys and ridges of South Westland

Looking east past the summit block towards the Main Divide.

The final section of ridge leading to the summit. The last 4m block of schist was too steep on all sides for us so we couldn't quite reach the true summit (2077m).

Johs on the summit ridge with Brewster in the background. We managed to pack up camp 900m below and get down through the bush in time to re-cross the Haast while it was still light.

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Photos: 2010, May: Solo trip to Fox Range

I spotted this peak sticking all out on its own to the south - definitely a future objective.

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Photos: 2010, January: Barrier Peak, Darran Mountains

Filling in time waiting for a good weather window for Mt Grave, Guy McKinnon, Merry and I had a day trip up Barrier Peak.

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Photos: 2009, December: West Face of Mt Haidinger

An ascent of the left buttress with Jono Sutton.

On the summit after a great climb, with great weather, with no anxiety about the upcoming descent, and with a good partner. Can't ask for much more!

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Photos: 2009, November: Mt Madeline, Darran Mountains

(With Dave Poulson and Andrei van Dusschoten)

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Never Say Never

January 2010: The First Ascent of the North Rib of Mount Grave, Darran Mountains, New Zealand, with Guy McKinnon and Andrei van Dusschoten

(Published in The Climber, Issue 71, Autumn 2010)

‘Grave was revealed, a striking rock tower across the Harrison. The view from the edge of the upper Harrison cirque was a spellbinding contrast to the bushed lowlands behind us; truly we had crossed the threshold into Fiordland.’ -Les Molloy, 1971 NZ Alpine Journal

I struggle to articulate a more accurate description of my emotions for when I passed over Harrison Saddle in February 2007. After four days of dense, wet bush and unremarkable terrain in the Kaipo and John O’Groats Valleys, the Harrison felt like another world. At the head of the valley was the beautiful, cliff-hemmed Lake Never Never, somehow unlikely in those vertical surroundings.

Above everything stood Mt Grave, a 400 metre block of gneiss seemingly dropped from the sky onto its surrounding three ridges. We camped next to Lake Pukutahi and ate dinner on a slab overlooking the lower Harrison Valley as the sun’s rays moved slowly towards horizontal. For hours I gazed at the striking line across the valley dividing light from darkness—the North Rib of Grave. The next morning we took our last breath of open views before plunging into the notorious forests of the Harrison and eventually to the culture shock of Milford Sound.

Mt Grave from Lake Pukutahi, February 2007. North Rib indicated between "x's". North Ridge on left skyline; West Ridge (route of first ascent in 1946) on right skyline.

Perhaps one of the most methodical and well-researched mountaineers New Zealand has yet produced is Roland Rodda, whose efforts in the area from 1938 to 1946 finally culminated in the first ascent of Mt Grave with Paul Powell and Jack Ede.

Prior to his first attempts on the mountain, Rodda was unimpressed by views of ‘the long up-and-down ridge running from the top of Grave’s Couloir.’[1] This north-east ridge was eventually climbed in 1963. As for the South Ridge, Rodda noted that ‘the two large gaps we could see in the ridge were not inviting.’[1] A marathon effort in Dec 1972 by a team of four, including Powell’s son Conway, succeeded on this route.

Mt Grave from Mt Madeline, with half of the 8km South Ridge extending to the left.

Rodda was finally impressed by some photos taken by Clark and Christie in 1937, which seemed to show a large ledge underneath Grave at the head of the Bowen Valley. In April 1941, Rodda and three others bashed up the Bowen to investigate, but ‘the very steep rock leading directly to the summit of Grave was smooth and crackless.’[1] He deduced that the most likely route to the summit would be over Mitis Peak, and an aerial photo showed a possible route there out of the Harrison Valley.

An almost forgotten mountain: Mt Grave from the Harrison Valley.

The following year, Rodda coaxed a different group of three to accompany him up the mostly unknown Harrison River. They blazed a route to a camp at the scrubline below Mitis before the weather turned them back.

More than three years as a medical officer in the Pacific weren’t enough to make Rodda forget about Grave, and in December 1946 yet another group of three found themselves with Roland at the high camp underneath Mitis peak. This time Rodda said, ‘We’re going to get Grave before someone else does.’[2]

Meticulous (and possibly excessive) logistical planning for transporting equipment and food to last three weeks paid off, and with Leo Faigan in support at camp, the remaining team of Rodda, Powell and Ede summited Grave via the West Ridge. Despite benightment in a storm on the descent, Rodda and Powell still had enough energy to claim the first ascent of Te Hau, on the opposite side of the Harrison, a few days later.

Tutoko from the Tutoko Valley, en route to Grave Couloir.

Walking up the Tutoko River; Paranui and Grave Couloir in the distance.

After my first visit to the Harrison I wanted to climb Grave, but there was no sense of urgency, nor was I thinking about a new route. A few months later I got my hands on the new Darrans guidebook, and one of the most prominent lines on the mountain wasn’t even mentioned. That amazing rib I’d viewed from Lake Pukutahi was unclimbed. ‘I wonder how many people will be heading in there to try it now.’

Upper Tutoko Valley

As it turned out, not many. Despite a photo clearly showing the prominence of the North Rib, the new guidebook thankfully had plenty of other distractions to keep people away from Grave. Also, it seems most climbers don’t enjoy the compulsory bush-bashing: ‘When you’ve seen one moss-covered dripping tree in the pouring rain, you’ve seen them all.’ —Peter Gough, The Canterbury Mountaineer 1972.

Climbing out of the Tutoko Valley on the unsuccessful attempt, February 2009.

Guy McKinnon and I had been telling each other for a while that we should do a trip together, and decided on an attempt at the North Rib of Grave. Guy had previously attempted the North-East Ridge (the North Ridge in the guidebook), and was keen for another crack at the mountain.

Nearing the top of Grave Couloir on the successful trip.

In February 2009 we made it to a bivvy on a shelf above the Selwyn Cirque in one long day via the Tutoko Valley. The bottom had fallen out of Grave’s Couloir, so we climbed a mix of tussock and rock bluffs to the left, as used by Bill McLeod on his ascent of Grave.

Easy snow slopes leading down to the Selwyn Shelf. Mitis Peak on left; Pembroke on right.

The Selwyn Shelf leads sneakily south all the way to steep slabs, which in turn can be followed either to the North Rib or the North-East Ridge of Mt Grave. But from our bivvy the slabs looked impossible—very steep with vegetated cracks—and it seemed we’d gone all that way for nothing.

Grave from the Bivvy, February 2009.

Grave from the camp, January 2010.

Drizzle set in during the night. In the morning we figured we may as well wander over to have a look at the base of the route before the long haul back out. And what a lesson we learned: never discount a route with conviction without going right up to it. By the time we were at the base of the slabs we knew they would go, so we decided to wait another day for fine weather.

The night before the successful climb; Pembroke silhouetted by the sunset.

All that afternoon and night we lay in our bivvy bags in the drizzle. The next morning the mountain was still cloaked in cloud and a westerly wind was threatening. ‘We’re low on food anyway, let’s get out of here.’ In a way I felt relieved that the attempt was off; I was no longer fully mentally committed, and my energy levels were low. We found a route down into the Selwyn via steep scrub on the true right of the cirque, then I was back on familiar ground for the jungle-bash out to Harrison Cove.

Grave (sitting) and Talbot in February 1910. Photo: Otago Daily Times

William George Grave has several features named after him, but who was he? From 1897 to 1909, Grave discovered and explored dozens of valleys, passes and routes in the region surrounding Milford, Sutherland, Bligh, and George Sounds.

Near the beginning of his exploratory years Grave, with A C Gifford and the Don brothers, made the first ascent of Grave’s Couloir at the head of the Tutoko Valley. This despite a gross lack of equipment, experience and good weather, and during which they were ‘severely peppered by rocks and pieces of ice.’[3]

Grave's Couloir. The icefall on our successful trip occurred near the base of the shady section.

His explorations culminated in the discovery of the Grave-Talbot pass with Arthur Talbot, ending the search for a packable yet direct route linking the head of the Hollyford with Milford Sound.

‘Bill’ also took part in the first ascents of MacPherson, Pembroke, Park, and in 1935, Christina. A Master at Waitaki Boys High School, he was described as ‘the foremost of the second generation of explorers in the mountains of Western Otago.’[4] According to Sir Thomas Hunter, ‘When Grave agreed to turn back, it was clear proof that nothing could be gained by going on.’[5]

Low on the approach slabs, soon after dawn. This was as far as Guy and I reached in February 2009.

January 2010: Guy and I were back at the Selwyn Shelf beneath the North Rib, this time with Andrei van Dusschoten. Countless hours had been spent pondering, researching, questioning, trying to remember details, planning … and now it was on.

Guy and Rob above the steep approach slabs, sussing out a line. Photo: AVD.

Our approach was two hours quicker due to Grave’s Couloir being in condition. This proved its reputation as a potentially dangerous route by showering us with ice blocks while we were on a small steep section halfway up. We heard loud cracks and booms from above, then saw a barrage of ice hurtling towards us.

On easy ground, heading for the crest of the North Rib on the right. Photo: AVD.

Though brief, the experience was the most terrifying of my life. Microwave-sized blocks were passing inches from us. Each time I thought it was over, someone would shout, ‘more coming!’ And once again I would stare at the slope and hope my stance would hold if I was hit. When it was over we quickly scurried higher to safer ground. Fortunately, after the couloir, the rest of the approach was a carefree amble down to the shelf in the afternoon sun.

Exciting climbing low on the rib. The tent is a tiny orange dot on the shelf below, near the patch of snow above my pack. Photo: AVD

That evening the cloud revealed what we had come to climb. I anxiously observed Andrei’s reaction; I’d told him good things about this route.

‘I’m pretty sure those approach slabs looked doable a year ago …’

Seconding an airy pitch about halfway up the rib. Photo: GM.

All three of us went to sleep full of optimism. We were working well together, the forecast was fantastic for five days, and the route looked like it would go. We hoped we would be able to solo most of it, but expected a few steep pitches in the middle.

Guy and Andrei on the North Rib, with Paranui prominent in the background.

Soon after dawn, we were at the base of the slabs, an hour from the tent. To our surprise, the slabs turned out to be great soloing and 20 minutes later they were below us. Over the next 150 vertical metres we angled right on easy slabby ground with small steps and minor shingle ledges, with plenty of vegetation. Just before 9.00 am our excitement increased when we gained the crest of the North Rib itself, about 500 metres below the summit.

Having lunch on a sidle away from the crest of the rib, below a steep pitch to regain the crest. This is where we decided to push on with the climb despite the late hour. Lake Pukutahi visible in left background. Photo: AVD

Guy at lunch; Pembroke in the background. Photo: AVD.

A short but awkward pitch up a steep vegetated corner convinced us it was time to pull out the rock shoes and stash the boots, then one more short steep pitch brought us to more scrambling. All three of us soon became more and more perplexed by the deteriorating quality of the rock. ‘I thought this was the Darrans!’ Not only was the rock turning out to be choss, but the vegetation was prolific even up to 2000 metres. We were starting to realise that this route wasn’t to be of the quality we’d hoped for.

In places the crest of the crumbling rib reared up steeply, forcing us on a traverse left or right. The steepest climbing of the day came each time we had to regain the crest. In total we climbed about five pitches, these whenever things became too steep to solo with confidence (grades 14 to 16), but they were scattered all the way up the route.

Andrei soloing steep ground in order to regain the crest once again.

Overall the route can be described as pretty dangerous, with stacked blocks, a sharp fractured arĂŞte, and some steep slabs and gullies.

Ascending into the cloud below the final steep section of the rib. Visibility came and went throughout the climb, but bad weather never threatened.

By the time we were halfway up we knew we’d found the worst rock in the Darrans, and at 2.00 pm it was time for a powwow. The rib was going to be awful to descend and a forced night out was guaranteed if we were to commit to the summit. It was only Guy’s enthusiasm to continue that pushed us on—something I’m really thankful for now.

On the edge of the summit snowfields, kicking steps with rock shoes, ten minutes from the summit. Photo: AVD.

The final 30 metres of the rib had the loosest rock of all, after which we had about ten minutes of easy snow and large blocks to scramble over. We summited just before 7.00 pm. I looked down the South and West Ridges, looked out past Pembroke and sat down near the highest block. There was so much history all around us, it was almost tangible. The previous ascentionists really must have felt something special up here.

Rob, Guy and Andrei on the blocky summit of Grave at 7pm. West Face of Tutoko in the background.

Looking west past Pembroke to the Tasman Sea.

Soon we had less than two hours of light remaining—it was time to leave. After only half an hour of down-climbing we set up the first abseil, took our turns, pulled the rope, and it stuck. It was 9.00 pm by the time we were on the move again.

Guy belaying while Andrei retrieves a stuck rope at sunset, still high on the North Rib.

As good bivvy ledges were scarce, we claimed the first spot where all three of us could just sit next to each other, tied ourselves in, and waited for dawn.

Dawn from the bivvy ledge.

Guy, Rob and Andrei at the sleepless, draughty bivvy. Photo: AVD.

We waited for warmth for almost two hours after sunrise, then realised the rays were not going to reach us anytime soon, so began creaking our way back down the rib. It took over an hour for us to stop shivering. And sure, the rock was loose, but the weather was okay and we took our time, arriving at our boots in the early afternoon and the camp a couple of hours later.

Abseiling into the murk, pretty sure we're on the right path. Photo: GM.

Steep downclimbing before the two final abseils on the rib. Photo: GM.

Beginning the first abseil down the approach slabs. Photo: AVD.

We were back in the land of the living—both in terms of our surroundings and our state of mind—and we made full use of the remainder of the afternoon with nutrition and rest. Mist still swirled around Grave as it always had. The mountain looked down on us with indifference, and we looked back with gratitude.

The peaceful, stress-free surroundings of camp.

The next evening we were again admiring Mt Grave from the tent, but this time it was from Lake Pukutahi, site of that amazing camp of mine three years prior. It had been an easy decision to avoid Grave’s Couloir after our earlier near miss, and for years I’d wanted to visit Lake Never Never, so a two-day exit out the Harrison Valley became our final goal.

Day 4: Admiring Grave from the slopes above the Selwyn Shelf. Line of the North Rib indicated.

En-route to the traverse beneath Ngapunatoru Pass, we witnessed another small ice and rock avalanche crash off Paranui and barrel its way down the couloir.

Traversing beneath the Ngapunatoru Icefall, just before Guy sprained his ankle. The saddle on the right leads to the top of Grave Couloir.

Descending towards Lake Never Never.

Marie Byles and Kurt Suter made the first descent from Ngapunatoru to Lake Never Never in 1937 after crossing from Stick Up Creek. Of the name: ‘Because we shall never, never go there again,’[6] according to Suter, however Byles wrote that ‘bygone times and lands that never were seemed to meet in spirit there, and a stray pair of ducks on its forlorn and empty waters recalled the Never Bird in Peter Pan. So you can take which explanation of the name you prefer.’[6]

The peaceful isolation of Lake Never Never.

We made a small detour to the lake, with the lapping water on the northern shore keeping us company while we sat in silence, contemplating our remoteness and those who had been here before us. A climb up a steep gut then an easy tussock traverse brought us to the Pukutahi outlet at dusk, just in time for a swim.

Lake Pukutahi at sunset.

That night the Southern Cross shone brightly above Mt Grave, and the waters of Pukutahi reflected the silhouette of Te Hau.

Mt Grave and the Southern Cross from the Lake Pukutahi campsite.

An early start and a sense of urgency the next day ensured we made it to Harrison Cove just in time to wave down a boat, even with Guy’s sprained ankle from the day before.

A brief respite from the wild Harrison forests.

All of the sudden the Harrison slows and becomes quiet; looking up, you realise you've reached Milford Sound.

Waving down a boat that rounded the point less than two minutes after we emerged onto the beach - the only boat on the sound that day small enough to pick us up.

And so began the privileged feeling we have all shared since, for being able to climb an amazing mountain in a beautiful area so rich in exploration and mountaineering history. Grave is a mountain with mana, and rarely lets down its defences, but it offers rewards to the adventurous climber not to be found anywhere else in the world.

Barely able to believe our luck with the boat ride - a perfect end to a trip that couldn't have been more successful.

[1] Rodda, R., 1947. “Grave,” NZAJ

[2] Powell, P., 1970. “Just where do you think you’ve been?” p130

[3] Ede, J., 1988. “Mountain Men of Milford,” p35

[4] Crozier, A., 1950. “Beyond the Southern Lakes”

[5] Hunter, Sir Thomas, 1950. “Beyond the Southern Lakes – Foreword.”

[6] Byles, M. B., 1937. “From Lake McKerrow to Milford Sound,” NZAJ

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